From Moz to Malawi & Gunshots in Zomba

From what I had gathered online I would need to catch a chapa at around 5am to the border. I had a vague idea of where to catch it, but I didn’t really know where exactly. I had stayed the previous night in an overpriced hotel in Cuamba (for what it was really worth anyways) after catching a train from Nampula the day before. Despite the bugs on the floor and the paranoia of them crawling onto me as I slept (I made sure my mosquito net was completely tucked in) I slept extremely well. My alarm went off at 4:30am, and at 5am I was happily leaving the hotel.

Because I wasn’t sure exactly where I was going, I paid 50meticais ($1aud) to take a motorcycle taxi to the chapa place. It was also still dark, and I didn’t much like the idea of walking around a town I didn’t know with all my possessions, particularly with no streetlights. My motorcycle driver and I were struggling a bit because of my big backpack as we were a bit off balance. We stopped after a few minutes to adjust my bag, but as we were doing so my calf brushed against something very hot on the bike! It was only for a split second, but I had managed to scorch my skin. It was quite painful (obviously), but there wasn't much I could do for the moment. 

350km on the Nampula to Cuamba Train – No Photography Please

The trip from Ilha to Nampula was smooth and uneventful. I had taken a shared taxi, and for 1500meticais I would get dropped off right in from of Ruby Backpackers. I had been dreading having to another chapa ride, so I decided why not? A few other people jumped in at one point or another, but within 3 hours we were pulling into Nampula. We only stopped to occasionally pick up or drop off people and once at a police roadblock (they are everywhere in Mozambique), where I got asked for my passport (no bribe was asked for).

After settling into Ruby Backpackers (the counterpart to the one on Ilha), I set about buying a train ticket for the following day. The guy at the reception who I had talked to had freaked me out about the train station, apparently there were a lot of thieves and pickpockets about. He told me to be on the look out for people standing in line to buy a ticket, but not actually planning on buying a ticket, and that even with my cross-body handbag I should be worried because there would be guys who would just slash the strap and take it. I was very nervous to say the least, but I couldn’t walk around Mozambique without my passport (too much hassle from police) and I couldn’t leave my phone behind because I needed it for directions.

Two Days on Ilha de Moçambique

Ilha de Moçambique/Mozambique Island/The Island of Mozambique is the most touristy spot I’ve visited in Mozambique so far. However, that’s not really saying all that much considering I’m in Northern Mozambique. It is considerably less developed here than it is down south (where it is closer to South Africa), but I’ve also found the people much more friendly than in Maputo so…

Mozambique Island used to be the capital of Mozambique, and from what I was told, the first place the Portuguese settled. Mozambique has since become independant, and as such all that seems to be of the Portuguese are the old crumbling buildings and the use of Portugueuse as the main language. The island is a UNESCO world heritage site, and walking around the island you can see people painting or repairing dilapidated buildings. 

From 4WD to Chapa to Truck: The Long Journey from Pemba to Ilha de Moçambique

After finding out that it is possible to get from Pemba to Mozambique Island in one day (I originally thought I would have top stay a night in Nampula), I opted to stay another day in Pemba. For the past couple of days I hadn't stayed in one place for more than one night, so I decided to take a breather from the constant packing and moving and take a day off.

When I first flew from Maputo to Pemba I had discounted the city because there wasn't much to do. To be honest there isn't much to do at all in Pemba (but in comparison to Ibo Island there is plenty ...), so I decided to spend the day checking out the city, and seeing what a 'city' in northern Mozambique actually is. It also helps that I was feeling very comfortable at my accomodation in Pemba, 'Pemba Magic Lodge', or also known as Russell's Place, Russell being a very friendly Australian. I had the dorm room to my self for two nights (perks of it being low season), there are proper showers (although there is only cold water, but it's so hot it doesn't matter), flushing toilets, WiFi (!) and I've been able to get my laundry done. All very good things in my books. (Also all the employees speak English which has been nice after struggling with Portuguese for the past few days).

Ilha de Matemo - Am I Really Supposed To Be Here???

Friday morning I set about finding out what was happening with this so called island tour. I hadn't heard anything from the guide, so I waited around my accomodation for a while before venturing down to the dock to sit for a bit (it was also had the best mobile reception). Soon enough the guy from yesterday came up to me and wondered why he hadn't heard from me - he had given me his number but I had put it incorrectly in my phone so hadn't been able to contact him. He said that the group was coming soon, and I should grab my stuff and be by the dock.

At 11am I was there and waiting. Soon enough a group of mzungus (white people) arrived and went off into the island. I wasn't too sure what was happening, the guide was gone and so I was just sitting there. Eventually the guide came back and told me that they were about to get on their dhow toward Matemo island. However, I couldn't get on the boat because there wasn't enough space, instead I would use another boat and pay 1500 meticais ($27aud). I asked about the price of the trip, and all I would have to pay for was the food and accomodation, and any guide tips. So I agreed, because there wasn't a whole heap of money involved and I wasn't sure what else I would do on Ibo Island. He said to wait there, a captain would come and collect me, and he rushed off to join the other group which was setting off. 

From Big City Maputo to Village Life in Ibo

After a few days not doing much in Maputo, it was time to hit the road and see what overland travel in Mozambique is all about. I had had a few days not doing much in the city (except for eating and catching up on a few TV shows), so with a plan to get to Malawi, I decided to head north and book a flight to Pemba, Mozambique (not Pemba, Tanzania). To do the trip overland would take around 4 days using public transport, and I don’t really have the time (or patience) for that so I opted to fly.