From 4WD to Chapa to Truck: The Long Journey from Pemba to Ilha de Moçambique


After finding out that it is possible to get from Pemba to Mozambique Island in one day (I originally thought I would have top stay a night in Nampula), I opted to stay another day in Pemba. For the past couple of days I hadn't stayed in one place for more than one night, so I decided to take a breather from the constant packing and moving and take a day off.

When I first flew from Maputo to Pemba I had discounted the city because there wasn't much to do. To be honest there isn't much to do at all in Pemba (but in comparison to Ibo Island there is plenty ...), so I decided to spend the day checking out the city, and seeing what a 'city' in northern Mozambique actually is. It also helps that I was feeling very comfortable at my accomodation in Pemba, 'Pemba Magic Lodge', or also known as Russell's Place, Russell being a very friendly Australian. I had the dorm room to my self for two nights (perks of it being low season), there are proper showers (although there is only cold water, but it's so hot it doesn't matter), flushing toilets, WiFi (!) and I've been able to get my laundry done. All very good things in my books. (Also all the employees speak English which has been nice after struggling with Portuguese for the past few days).

Ilha de Matemo - Am I Really Supposed To Be Here???


Friday morning I set about finding out what was happening with this so called island tour. I hadn't heard anything from the guide, so I waited around my accomodation for a while before venturing down to the dock to sit for a bit (it was also had the best mobile reception). Soon enough the guy from yesterday came up to me and wondered why he hadn't heard from me - he had given me his number but I had put it incorrectly in my phone so hadn't been able to contact him. He said that the group was coming soon, and I should grab my stuff and be by the dock.

At 11am I was there and waiting. Soon enough a group of mzungus (white people) arrived and went off into the island. I wasn't too sure what was happening, the guide was gone and so I was just sitting there. Eventually the guide came back and told me that they were about to get on their dhow toward Matemo island. However, I couldn't get on the boat because there wasn't enough space, instead I would use another boat and pay 1500 meticais ($27aud). I asked about the price of the trip, and all I would have to pay for was the food and accomodation, and any guide tips. So I agreed, because there wasn't a whole heap of money involved and I wasn't sure what else I would do on Ibo Island. He said to wait there, a captain would come and collect me, and he rushed off to join the other group which was setting off. 

From Big City Maputo to Village Life in Ibo

After a few days not doing much in Maputo, it was time to hit the road and see what overland travel in Mozambique is all about. I had had a few days not doing much in the city (except for eating and catching up on a few TV shows), so with a plan to get to Malawi, I decided to head north and book a flight to Pemba, Mozambique (not Pemba, Tanzania). To do the trip overland would take around 4 days using public transport, and I don’t really have the time (or patience) for that so I opted to fly.